Preservatives in cosmetics are often criticized, however, preservatives help cosmetic formulations remain safe and prevent timely changes. EU regulations have a strict framework listing 59 preservatives that are allowed.

What are preservatives in cosmetics?

Article 2 (l) of European Regulation 1223/2009 defines a preservative as: "any substance which is used exclusively or mainly to inhibit the growth of microorganisms in cosmetic products". Preservatives help preserve formulas and ensure the durability of cosmetics. They are essential for formulations that contain water. In fact, the presence of water in the formulation creates a favorable environment for the development of microorganisms.

Why are preservatives used in cosmetics?

The use of preservatives in cosmetic products is essential to prevent changes caused by microorganisms and contamination during formulation, transportation, storage or consumer use. Antioxidants can also be used to protect against changes caused by exposure to oxygen.

How to comply with EU 1223/2009 Cosmetics Regulation?

In the EU Cosmetics Regulation, Annex V lists 59 preservatives allowed in cosmetic formulations and their concentration limits. Every cosmetic product placed on the EU market must comply with regulations and annexes.

If you use preservatives in your formula, make sure you list the preservatives you use on a positive list. Below you will find the most commonly used preservatives in cosmetics.

1. Synthetic preservatives

Advantages of synthetic preservatives:

Using synthetic preservatives can give you a good idea of the safety and toxicity profile of the ingredients. Low concentrations of synthetic preservatives effectively preserve the product. In addition, synthetic preservatives have broad-spectrum activity against bacteria and fungi. Plus, they are more affordable than natural preservatives.

List of the most common synthetic preservatives in cosmetics:

Organohalogen compounds: Organohalogen compounds are a large class of natural and synthetic chemicals that contain at least one of the following halogens: fluorine, chlorine, bromine, iodine. They combine with carbon and other substances. Below you will find a non-exhaustive list of the most common synthetic preservatives:

Triclosan

Methylisothiazolinone

Methylchloroisothiazolinone

Chlorphenazine

chloroxylenol

iodopropynyl butyl carbamate

Methyldibromoglutaronitrile

Aldehydes: Aldehydes are organic compounds in which a carbon atom shares a double bond with an oxygen atom, a single bond with a hydrogen atom, and a single bond with another atom or group of atoms.

formaldehyde

benzyl hemiacetal

diazolidinyl urea

imidazolidinyl urea

2-Bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol

DMDM Hydantoin

MDM Hydantoin

Quaternium-15

Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate

Glycol ethers: Glycol ethers are a group of solvents based on alkyl ethers of ethylene glycol or propylene glycol.

Phenoxyethanol

2-Butoxyethanol

2-(2-Butoxyethoxy)-ethanol

2-(2-Ethoxy)-ethanol

Parabens: Parabens are a family of parabens or parabens. Known as preservatives, they have bactericidal and fungicidal properties.

Methylparaben

Ethylparaben

Propylparaben

Butyl paraben

Isobutylparaben

2.Natural preservatives

Advantages of natural preservatives:

Using natural preservatives may make you use the words "natural" and/or "organic" on the label. Natural preservatives cover a wide pH range, and consumers often prefer natural preservatives over synthetic ones.

List of the most common natural preservatives in cosmetics:

benzoic acid

sorbic acid

Salicylic acid

Alcohol

3.Antioxidant preservatives

An antioxidant is a substance that inhibits oxidation or reactions promoted by oxygen, peroxides or free radicals.

1. Synthetic antioxidants:

Butylated Hydroxytoluene (BHT)

Butylated Hydroxyanisole (BHA)

2. Natural Antioxidants:

Tocopherol (Vitamin E)

Ascorbic acid (vitamin C)

Polyphenols

flavonoids